Arriving in Underberg
Sawubona! This means 'hello and a warm welcome' in Zulu, one of South Africa's official languages. It’s now been almost 18 months since our flight from Frankfurt am Main took off for Johannesburg. Our adventure began in early January 2020 when the four of us – Mitja, Johannes, Lisa and me (Paula) – finally set off for South Africa, or more precisely, Underberg, a small town on the edge of the Drakensberg Mountains.
The flight, including the stopover in Johannesburg, went smoothly and a day later, we arrived at Clouds of Hope in Underberg, exhausted but excited. That evening, we met our house mum, Thobile; the manager, Zesizwe; and the other residents of the halfway house during a shared dinner.
Without a doubt, the first few hours, despite the warm welcome, were not easy, as getting to know a foreign culture – which we went on to love – was not straightforward at first. Misunderstandings can sometimes arise from differences in language and communication styles. Nevertheless, we always managed to discuss our concerns, as Zesizwe and Thobile were always willing to listen.
During our first few days there
Underberg didn’t show itself in the best light on our first evening, when we were greeted by rain, cold temperatures and a power breakdown. At the time, we could not have imagined that the blackouts would actually turn into cosy evenings by candlelight. We also had to contend with regular water shortages during our stay, which is why we stocked up on water as a precaution. Nevertheless, we managed to adapt to the special conditions relatively well. A shower with enough hot water quickly became the highlight of the day!
Everyday Life with the Children
The next day, everything already looked completely different. Well-rested, we started the morning and, for the first time, saw the Drakensberg Mountains shining behind the camp in the sunlight. The view alone was absolutely worth it.
From that moment on, every day only became more beautiful, as we got to know the children from the Clouds of Hope children’s village and were welcomed with open arms right away. No two days were ever the same, but they all revolved around spending as much time as possible with the children. Playing volleyball and football, skipping rope, hide-and-seek and tag, or simply sitting together, chatting, and listening to music quickly became part of our everyday life.
Until school started again, we had plenty of different tasks, such as decluttering and sorting through supplies or helping out with gardening work. One ongoing project was redesigning the “Arts Room,” which was meant to become a space for reading, playing, and making music. We were given complete creative freedom and painted the walls with bright colors and different shapes. To leave a lasting memory of our project, every resident of Clouds of Hope — including the four of us — added colorful handprints to the walls.
Working at the School
As soon as school started again, we accompanied the children to Goxhill Primary School twice a week and were able to help with teaching there. Since the school faces a shortage of teachers, the four of us usually taught two classes and were given a lot of freedom in how we organized the lessons.
In English classes, we introduced weekly reading sessions to help strengthen the children’s language skills, while in art we planned several creative projects that the children truly enjoyed. One of these projects was called “Turning Old into New,” where the children collected rubbish and recycled materials to create crafts, animals, and other objects during class. By the end, they had produced real works of art. And since it also happened to be Valentine’s Day, both we and the teachers and families received some of the handmade creations as gifts. Of course, football and skipping rope during break time were just as important and could never be missed!
Culture and Food
During our time in South Africa, we came to know and love the South African way of life. We admired the people’s relaxed attitude, passion, and hospitality, and brought many of those values back home with us to Germany.
We also had the chance to experience South African cuisine in depth. Our house mum, Thobile, cooked traditional meals for us and always made sure to keep in mind that two of us were vegetarians. In return, we often baked cakes — most frequently a lemon cake, which both our house mum and Zesizwe absolutely loved. Whenever there was time, we would sit together, drink tea, eat cake, and simply chat.
At school, the students were served a warm lunch every day, and whenever there were leftovers, we were lucky enough to try some as well. That’s how we discovered one of our favorite South African dishes: cabbage with cooked beans and maize, also known as “Cabbage with Samp and Beans.” Don’t worry — it tastes far better than it sounds!
Free Time and Excursions
During our free time, we had the opportunity to do a lot of activities and, apart from a few rules, we were given a great deal of freedom. We often walked to Underberg to eat at the restaurant “Lemon Tree” or to shop at the local grocery store, Spar. We also went on trips with locals from Underberg, many of whom volunteered at Clouds of Hope as well.
Since Underberg lies at the foot of the Drakensberg Mountains, we booked an adventurous guided tour up the famous Sani Pass to Lesotho, South Africa’s neighboring country. At the top, we visited the “Highest Pub in Africa,” where we enjoyed the beautiful weather with a local beer in hand.
Highlight: Hluhluwe National Park
When we found out that we would also have a few days off, we did not hesitate for long and booked a short trip to Hluhluwe National Park, which is about a six-hour drive away. This was definitely one of the highlights of our stay, as we were lucky enough to see four of the famous Big Five and even went on a boat tour where we spotted crocodiles and hippos.
I still remember the moment when we had just entered the national park by car and suddenly, not far away from us, an elephant emerged from the bushes and crossed the road. Seeing such a breathtaking sight for the first time can easily bring tears of joy, goosebumps, and a little scream of excitement. (Especially if it is your very first time seeing an elephant in the wild — just like it was for me!)
Looking Back
Our time in South Africa was unforgettable and still brings back so many wonderful memories. The difficulties we faced at the beginning slowly faded away, and what once felt like a strange place at the end of the world eventually became a home for us.
We grew incredibly attached to the people — and especially to the children — and saying goodbye was far harder than we had expected. In those almost three months, we probably learned more than ever before in our lives. We got to know a completely different culture with its own traditions and habits, and realized that our own perspectives and ways of doing things are not always the only right ones. Spending time with the children showed us how easy it is to find joy in the simplest things, but also taught us the importance of patience and sensitivity.
We experienced South Africa from many different sides and discovered not only how breathtakingly beautiful this country is, but also how difficult life can be in some regions. I am endlessly grateful for these three months and I know that one day I will come back. Hopefully very soon.